Dorset Coast, UK, 2024

I've had the privilege of visiting the United Kingdom a few times, but I had never visited the English Channel or the south coast. On a recent backpacking trip up the Thames River with friends in the county of Oxfordshire, my partner and I took the opportunity to explore a small bit the coastal county of Dorset.

Route to the Dorset Coast

We had ended our hiking trip up the source of the Thames River in the town of Cirencester, in Gloucestershire. From there, we took a train south to Bristol, then continued south on a train to Dorchester, in Dorset. From there, we caught a double-decker bus to Bridport. In Bridport we hiked with our meager backpacks a short distance down to the connected harbor village of West Bay.

Bridport and West Bay, Dorset

Since we didn't have a rented car, public transportation was our only option to get around. We chose the town of Bridport and the connected harbor of West Bay as our base for exploring the coastal trails. We chose this location because: 1) it is surrounded by accessible hiking trails along the coast; 2) the towns are connected to major train and bus lines; 3) there are plenty of choices for accommodation.

Note: the photographs are almost all courtesy of my partner Tom Wilson.

Small fishing harbor of West Bay on the Dorset Coast, our home for 5 days

Botanical features of the Dorset coast

Few trees or shrubs grow along the chalky cliffs of the Dorset coast. This is due to thin nutrient-poor soil, constant wind, and salt spray from the sea. But among the many plants that survive these conditions are grass, hemp, and flax. For this reason, Bridport became a locally famous producer of rope for ship's rigging, beginning in the 9th century.

Flax and hemp were the dominant fibers for rope making. Bridport's ropes were in huge demand for almost 800 years, and continue to be produced to this day. For example, a warship at the time of Henry the 8th could use several miles of rope. Later, advanced sailing ships like Lord Nelson's flagship HMS Victory used 27 miles of rope with anchor ropes up to 8 inches in diameter. Then, imagine all the warships and merchant ships that sailed the English Channel to understand the scope of the demand for plant fibers.

Rope fibers

Cannabis sativa is the major hemp variety for rope making. Long coarse fibers are found in the stalk of the plant, which are resistant to UV light and stretching. Linum usitatissimum is the species of flax fiber, useful for its long, strong and flexible fibers which are pleasant to handle.

Bridport is famous for its history of rope making

Weymouth, one of several ports on the Dorset coast

Gentle rolling hills look out over the English Channel

The eroded, chalky Dorset cliffs are rich with fossils, hence the nickname Jurassic Coast

Typical Dorset coastline: grassy, treeless and windswept

Gentle hills and easy walking

Almost the entire island of England is encircled by a rich system of walking trails. Dorset is blessed with them too. From our snug hotel room in West Bay we found trails in either direction up and down the coast. Unfortunately for me, I experienced my first infection with the covid-19 virus (positive antigen test). After at least 8 vaccination boosters over the past few years, recovery for me was relatively quick. I was able to get out and enjoy the trails after one day of bedrest. Sensible isolation precautions were observed. Fortunately, my partner did not develop the illness, and remained antigen negative.